Take a walk through Burnham Beeches, an historic woodland to the west of London.
The City of London might be England’s smallest city, but it oversees large pockets of greenery well beyond its central Square Mile. The most famous are perhaps Hampstead Heath and Epping Forest, but head a little farther out into Buckinghamshire and you’ll find the enchanting Burnham Beeches.
You know you’re somewhere special when you sit down in the cafe garden and notice shaggy inkcaps growing all along the boundary. The woods beyond are a National Nature Reserve and a Special Area of Conservation. Who knows what you might see in this more-than-500-acre wood?
Into the woods
One thing you won’t see much of is wayfinding. The woods have been left as natural as possible, which means fingerposts and maps are kept to a minimum. Best take a map. And don’t rely on your phone as the 4G/5G signal quickly wanes as you move away from the parking area and cafe.
You may encounter livestock. White cattle and Exmoor ponies are free to wander certain areas of the woods. Indeed, they’re a key part of the ecosystem. Their gradual grazing helps keep small plants in check, while their dung provides nutrients for fungi. And we’ve never seen a wood with quite so much fungal variety. It’s quite striking.
No plying for goats
Burnham Beeches has been managed by the City of London Corporation since 1879, when it was snapped up for £6,000 after failing to sell at auction. This area of Buckinghamshire is now forever an adjunct to the Square Mile. The familiar City crest pops up here and there throughout the woods.
A plaque to Mendelssohn. Those who know the Barbican will have seen a chunk of tree from Burnham Beeches, said to be part of the original tree that Mendelssohn loved to compose beneath.
As with Hampstead Heath, the Corporation maintains a dizzying list of bye-laws. We learn that you are not allowed to hawk or peddle any ‘articles’ or build a roundabout; you may not play at dice, nor engage in fortune telling. Swearing is forbidden. You may not wash dogs. You may not ply for the hire of a goat.
Breach any of these rules and it “shall be deemed to be an offence against the Corporation of London”. The long list includes “the climbing up of trees”. I’m now tempted to have “I committed an offence against the Corporation of London” printed onto t-shirts for my kids.
From Iron Age to Silver Screen
Druid’s Oak.
Burnham Beeches has several features of interest you’ll want to check out. Various ponds and a sensory trail should keep the kids happy. Meanwhile, two ancient structures survive in these woods. The Seven Ways Plain contains the defensive ditch on an Iron Age hillfort, while a very obvious moat, probably medieval, can be found to the north-west of the site. Close to Seven Ways is the so-called Druid’s Oak, which is reckoned at over 800 years old. Not exactly back to druidic times, but more venerable than your average plant.
The wizened trees have lured their fair share of film crews over the years. Pinewood Studios is just a 10-minute drive away. Consequently, several Robin Hoods have crunched through the beechmast, including ones who looked like Kevin Costner and Richard Todd.
Moo.
Harry Potter stroked his thestral in the privacy of these woods, then returned with a horcrux. A scene in Goldfinger was apparently shot here. Visit in the autumn months and the whole woodland has the Midas touch, crisp with orange and gold. But whichever time of year you visit, Burnham Beeches is a fabulous day out.
Burnham Beeches is a short taxi ride (or hour’s walk) from Burnham station on the Elizabeth line. Ample parking is available for those who drive. Entrance is free all year round, but there is a car park fee.
